In 2019, Vinay Kesari, a Bengaluru-based lawyer with expertise in technology law and policy, took to social media to share a candid yet thought-provoking thread regarding the disparity in durability between women’s and men’s shoes despite both often falling within a similar price range, which was then documented on digital publication Medium. In his post, Kesari openly acknowledged the stark contrast in quality. He described men’s shoes as “solid,” with substantial soles and padding, designed to endure the rigours of the real world. In contrast, he humorously quipped that the women’s shoes his wife purchased seemed more suited for walking on “fairy dust and unicorn farts,” highlighting the perceptible fragility in the construction of women’s footwear. This thread was a notable reflection on the subtle but impactful ways in which gender-based distinctions can manifest in everyday products, extending to something as seemingly straightforward as shoes.
The higher costs for women’s shoes are partly attributed to the variety available. Image: Arpita Mehta x SKO collection
Down to the brass tacks
Lucknow-based shoe designer Aeshaa Gupta, who has previously worked with Bata India Ltd. as well as with one of the leading Indian women’s shoe export houses - Leiner shoes Pvt. Ltd., Noida, for their homegrown (women’s) shoe brand Vanilla Moon, acknowledges this prejudice. For Gupta, during her undergraduate course in shoe design at FDDI Noida, it became clear that there’s a prevailing bias towards focusing on men’s designs and footwear, while women’s footwear often receives less attention and expertise in education and training.“This discrepancy in emphasis on men’s and women’s footwear may be attributed to a historical bias that undervalues or sidelines women’s fashion and design. If the education and training in the field of shoemaking do not adequately cover the diverse and specific needs of women’s footwear, it can hinder the development of the industry in the country,” she says.
At times, ill-fitting proportions and other quality-related issues could hamper a woman's shoe-wearing experience. Image: Arpita Mehta x SKO collection
Shoes brands should design products that cater to the diverse needs of all consumers, regardless of their gender. Image: Arpita Mehta x SKO collection
The Technicalities
When it comes to the technical aspects of manufacturing women’s shoes, Gupta says it’s not overly intricate. However, the primary reason for the limited prominence of women’s shoe designers, particularly in regions like Agra and Kanpur, can be traced back to the deeply ingrained patriarchy within society. The shoemaking industry predominantly revolves around leather, which has historically been associated with masculinity rather than femininity. Moreover, she adds, the labour force in these factories is predominantly male, further contributing to the male-dominated nature of the industry.
This discrepancy in emphasis on men’s and women’s footwear may be attributed to a historical bias. Image: Vanilla Moon Shoes
High heels demand a level of precision and attention to detail, especially concerning the arch of the foot. Image: Vanilla Moon Shoes
“A woman entering such a factory or ‘karkhana’ may experience a sense of discomfort, almost as if she were an unwelcome guest. Many women who feel uncomfortable in such an environment may opt not to pursue careers in this field, leading to a noticeable absence of female representation. In fact, if only men are primarily involved in operating the industry, they often lack the fashion-oriented perspective necessary for diversifying the market,” says Gupta.
The only notable difference between both styles lies in the time required for manufacturing, Gupta tells The Established. The exception arises when producing heels, as this involves an additional, highly technical procedure. “In the context of Indian brands that manufacture heels, it’s important to note that they predominantly use common shoe lasts,” she says, adding that understanding the concept of “lasts” in shoemaking is integral to our discussion. Lasts are essentially the core of the matter at hand. When crafting a shoe, it must conform to the shape of our feet. To achieve this, a shoe must be built around a model or replica of an anatomical foot. Originally, lasts were constructed from wood or metal, but today, they are typically made from plastic.
“These plastic lasts serve as moulds, resembling the shape of a foot, and the shoe’s outer covering, whether it’s fabric or leather, is wrapped around them. This wrapping process involves various techniques, including cementing and stitching, and there are numerous other construction methods,” she says.
Complexity of the design plays a significant role in pricing shoes. Image: Oceedee
Now, as the karigars work with these replicas of our feet, it’s crucial to comprehend that the shape of the last dictates the shoe’s characteristics. The roundness or pointedness of the toe, along with the chosen heel height, profoundly influences the final product. In the case of flat-soled shoes, the process is relatively straightforward, with a sole attached to the bottom. However, when crafting heels, the complexity increases in proportion to the heel’s height. The last must accommodate the desired heel height, and the attachment is secured with nails, necessitating specialised machinery. It’s worth noting that the quality of this attachment is critical, as poor-quality work results in rejection.
“This complexity and the need for specific equipment deter many from entering the field of women’s shoe manufacturing. Additionally, there is a substantial investment required, especially for those opting to produce high heels, which are less commonly worn in India. Many individuals prefer safer options like platforms or wedge heels due to their lower complexity, but these choices involve higher investment costs. The wide array of shapes in women’s shoes adds to the overall expenses,” explains Gupta.
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The pattern tracing process at Oceedee. Image: Oceedee